Monday, 17 January 2011

Alex Party - Don't Give Me Your Life (1995/ No. 2/ 13 weeks/ Systematic)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJQ4qMO0njQ&feature=related

Looking back at the charts of between about 1993 and 1995, one trend stands head and shoulders above anything else going on: This was the absolute golden age of Europop. Every week some delightful new diversion would arrive, be it from Holland, Sweden, Germany, Italy or Denmark; 2 Unlimited, Haddaway, Culture Beat, Urban Cookie Collective, Doop, Corona, Whigfield, Livin' Joy... Fresh, amusing, instantly memorable, fun - like pop oughtta be!

It couldn't last, of course. Two things eventually derailed it - the rise of trance music, and of dance reworkings of seventies choons designed to irritate pop swots such as myself. Neither genre could provide the sense of imaginative personality or the pleasurable potential of the classic Europop form.

Alex Party were Livin' Joy under another name; Italian brothers Paolo and Gianni Visnadi, DJ Alex Natale, plus singer-for-hire Shanie Campbell. Don't Give Me Your Life is a commendably functional record, in that it really serves its primary function of making you want to head to the dancefloor and start things going. This is achieved through the combination of two factors; pleasingly generic diva vocals, and - crucially - a spacious and uncluttered production, built around a few brilliant synthesised effects that any listener will automatically register and respond to;

Bloop! - Bloopabloopa - Bloop! - Bloopabloopa
Bloop! - Bloopabloopa - Bloop! - Bloopabloopa

You treated me baahad!
Now what can I say?

(miasmic) Wwuuwwuuwwuuwwuu!

Bloop! - Bloopabloopa - Bloop! - Bloopabloopa
Bloop! - Bloopabloopa - Bloop! - Bloopabloopa

You told me you loved me -
but it neverfeltthatway!

Wwuuwwuuwwuuwwuu!

The best synth effect of all is saved for the unambiguous chorus;

But don't you know?
I don't need -
I don't need your life!
Don't give me your life! Your life! Give me your life!

Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup! - Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup!

HEAAY AAY YOWH!
Don't give me your life! Your life! Give me your life!

Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup! - Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup!

HEAAY AAY YOWH!
Don't give me your life! Your life! Give me your life!

Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup! - Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup!

HEAAY AAY YOWH!
Don't give me your life! Your life! Give me your life!

Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup! - Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup!

HEAAY AAY YOWH!

Don't gimme - Don't gimme - Don't gimme - Don't gimme - Don't gimme your life!

There's something exceptionally pleasing about the Morse code "Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup! - Bup bop! Bup bop! Bup!" bit, in a way that triggers a childlike, instinctive, part of the brain. To be heard in optimum conditions, even better than on a transistor or in a disco, this would work brilliantly at the fairground.

It's not a song that demands lyrical close reading, but it is clear that the heartache of the singer is gonna get exorcised through the act of dancing; "I can't be doing with this anymore! Let's just drop this! Okay? Don't give me your life!" She hears the siren call of the Bloop! - Bloopabloopa - Bloop! - Bloopabloopa and rushes to the dancefloor to be done with this boyfriend complication, reaching out for a higher and more reliable form of affirmation, only to be found in the rhythms of the club.

Sunday, 16 January 2011

Internal, Ontroerend Goed, Traverse at Mercure Point Hotel, Edinburgh, Saturday 15 August 2009.


I knew a little about the show in advance: it was a sight specific work for an audience of five interacting with five performers, roughly based around the idea of speed dating. Obviously, with such a small audience, tickets were hard to come by. Ontoerend Goed's previous Traverse show, about riotous teenagers, had been the best thing that I'd seen in the previous year's festival, and the balance between the incredibly precise and choreographed and the seemingly chaotic spontaneity of what the teenagers were doing was a thing of wonder.

The publicity asked us to "surrender to an intimate individual experience". I had heard reports that a man might show you photos of his penis, and that a woman would show you her breasts. I knew that the tits woman was called 'Aurelie', and had seen a picture of her in the Scotsman, a strikingly attractive model. David had been to see it earlier and advised me that I ought to enter into the spirit of the thing to get the most out of it, and that I probably would learn something about myself through the process. I was very much wanting not to be paired with one of the men, and rather hoping that I'd get Aurelie.

A Traverse usher lets me into a locked conference centre foyer and asks me to wait at a table. One woman is already here, who looks quite shy and normal. If I were to guess her profession it would be a teacher, probably about my age. A younger Chinese woman appears. then a group of three slightly laddish types turns up, not the sort of men whom I'd get on with. They have three tickets for last Saturday. The usher tells them to hang on in case the other ticket holders don't turn up. They don't, so two of the lads join us, one of them in Ben Sherman-type casual clothes, the other looking a bit new age, unkempt long hair and cut-off jeans, but whom most women would clearly find to be buff.

We stand in a row on five crosses and are told to look ahead of us. A curtain rises and I'm pleased to be presented with the sight of Aurelie, who is my height. But then the performers shuffle around - there's a spare sixth male one who then goes away, and Aurelie swaps with another woman, a bit shorter than me, darkish hair tied back, black dress. We look at each other for a long time. I try to keep my face looking open and friendly.

The woman takes my hand, tells me her name is Sophie, asks mine and leads me to a darkened booth, chairs either side of a small table, a bottle of red wine and two glasses. Muzak plays. She tells me that I know how to stare at a woman, I tell her that it was a bit odd and that she has a small flake of glitter on her cheek. She asks me if I'm alright and when I ask her back says that last week was odd, but that she feels more at home now.

She offers me a drink and I tell her that I don't. When I'm asked why I tell her the old story of how I was sick on my thirtieth birthday and realised that I never really liked drinking. Just a taste she says, okay I say, like being in church. Red wine certainly tastes potent if you haven't drunk it for about ten years.

Oh, they're playing Send In The Clowns, I observe, that's a sad song. No, yes it is strange Sophie replies, laughing slightly.

What follows happens very quickly. Am I a happy person? God no, a sad one, I say. Me too says Sophie. I'm sorry to hear that.

What is your job? I'm a PhD student and a University teacher. I find work quite stressful, some people are more calm and rational about it, but I still get that feeling of fear before I teach and relief afterwards, perhaps like you do before you act... I really want to be liked by my students.

How about relationships? asks this very attractive and solicitous Belgian woman, looking sympathetically into my eyes. Oh, nothing, I do things wrong, I explain, in fact I'm feeling particularly sad this week because of a rejection from a woman I love, I'm not like other people, most people base their lives around desire, flirtation, the thrill of strangers, I don't, I only really fancy women who I love and love women who I know, which is the wrong way to go about things. So these women? asks Sophie. They seem rather disappointed in me when I do express a romantic interest I explain, this being my preoccupying doomy thought of the last few days.

I'm aware that this conversation is rather one-sided. I feel that normally I'd be asking Sophie questions about herself, and feel a bit sheepish and guilty about this, but time seems so compressed and accelerated in this situation.

I can't remember how Sophie phrases the question, but she asks me something about women in the past. I tell her my feeling that I had when I was at University that this was clearly the point that my life was leading towards and away from, and how when I got the minibus home from the department for the last time after the final party having failed to make any final connection with the two women there who I wanted to be close to, this overwhelming feeling of "That's it, I've lost then" and that being twelve years ago and the numb sensation that I had for years after that...

(That sensation that I get when I'm talking intimately about myself, of the words coming out in a rush and slightly wrong, and that I must be revealing something else about myself other than what the words are saying.)

This is an odd conversation to be having with a stranger, especially a partially fictitious one.

Sophie holds my hands, looks into my face, and tells me to close my eyes. She wants me to take her somewhere, will I do that? Eventually my imagination starts to form a picture. We're in Greenwich Park, which I explain to Sophie is in London ("Do you live in London?"). We're on the very steep pathway on the hill with the Royal Observatory and the statue of Admiral Woolf at the top.

(The feel of the tendons in Sophie's hands, flexing and supple.)

What are we doing? We're walking down the hill, holding hands.

How do you feel, being with me? I feel a bit uneasy at first, but because the gradient of the path is so steep, and we both find walking down it difficult that makes us less self conscious in each others company

Do you like being with me? Do you think that we might have something together? Yes. Yes, I do.

Okay Billy, open your eyes, I want you to meet some friends of mine. And so Sophie leads me by the hand to a circle of chairs, with the other performers and audience members. Apart from Sophie and Aurelie - who paired up with Ben Sherman lad - the other actors are a blonde woman in a white dress with Mr Buff New Age, a tall darkish man with crazy wiry hair with the Chinese woman, and a rather suave and arch looking blonde Russian man with the teacher woman.

This second half of the show is a lot less interesting to me, largely because, apart from the teacher woman, the other audience members don't strike me as being very interesting people, and partly because my major interest is now in what Sophie is going to say about me and I'll be asked to say, with the subsidiary question of whether we'll get to see Aurelie's tits also an interesting proposition.

We report back. Mr Buff New Age took his date to a beach, and has an interesting job as an animator, but he already has a girlfriend. 'Oliver' tells us that the teacher woman is quite a shy person. At one point the funny-haired performer tells the Chinese woman to leave the circle while he tells us a secret about her, but all he does say is that she comes from Singapore and he thinks that they might have something because he likes girls who come from there.

Aurelie and Ben Sherman answer the same questions differently; We hung out together, he was okay, he's quite hot, etc. I slightly suspect that Ben Sherman might be a plant.

At one point Sophie calls Oliver 'Yuri' by mistake, and the spell is broken a bit, though we are all playing such a game with artifice that it doesn't matter much.

Sophie tells the group that Billy took me to the park. I think that we might have something she says, do you think so too, Billy? Yes.

What are Billy's good points, Sophie? "He has an artistic imagination, he is very open and he has a steady income". What do you think about Sophie, Billy?

"I think that she is very imaginative and empathetic, as well as being pret- beautiful, actually". I look into her face. She looks encouragingly back at me.

Was there anything less good about Billy, Sophie? "He has very little confidence, and should have more"

"Yes" I reply, still looking into Sophie's face, with an expression that I imagine might have looked humble.

I am asked to give Sophie a mark out of ten. I say that I'm not sure that I believe in giving marks. Come on, we can take it, you're a teacher, says Sophie. Well, then nine. And what mark would you give Billy, Sophie? Eight. I feel slightly flattered, but mostly relieved.

Aurelie looks into Ben Sherman's eyes. "Is this what you want?" and drops the top of her dress. Her breasts are more pendulous than you might have expected without having a droop, with rosy nipples, not much darker than the rest of her skin, and quite puffy aureolae. Aurelie's face has an expression that isn't quite a pout, defiant, amused by everyone's discomfort.

"Yes. No. Maybe!" answers Ben Sherman, which is a pretty good line.

(Later on, David tells me that what happens if you get Aurelie is that she doesn't speak to you, but rubs her legs against you and gets you to stroke her. When he got the tits thing his reply was rather defensive and graceless and he instantly regretted saying it. I imagine that if I had got Aurelie I would have found the experience quite upsetting and it might have make me cry, although the prospect of touching up a really attractive Belgian girl is also obviously, on the face of it, a very appealing one as well.)

The circle disperses. "Billy, I think that we might have something. I would like you to give me your address. Is that okay?" Sophie asks me. Yes, of course. She fetches a note card. When I've written it down, she reads it out and asks me if she's got it right. This really answers some need in me to be wanted, although the effect is a bit diluted when I see that everybody else is giving their addresses, too.

Sophie asks me to dance. I accept willingly, but apologise for my clumsiness. "Oh me, too" she says laughing in a kindly fashion.

The performers are dancing us towards the curtain. it's time for us to say goodbye, Billy. Give me three kisses. Her right cheek, her left and then the right again. Stand on the cross.

Goodbye Billy.

Goodbye Sophie.

The curtain slowly descends. No more face. No more body. No more feet.

No more Sophie.

We all reel away a bit. "Oh man, that was awesome!" Ben Sherman tells Mr Buff New Age. The Traverse usher shows us a wall of letters that have been written to the characters, and asks us not to give the game away to the next group waiting in the foyer.

Four days later I get a letter from 'Sophie'. It's set out like a school report card. My eight out of ten is because I failed on Weakness and Adventurousness. That is undeniably true. However, I passed Appearance, Artistic Interest, Profession/ hobby, Honest/ open, Income, Creativity, Trustworthy and Interested in me. I think that of that list, I least deserve Income, am most surprised to get Appearance and am most relieved to pass Interested in me.

Funnily enough, discovering that Sophie's conversation was evaluating me so systematically makes the event feel more intrusive than it did when it was actually happening.

'Sophie' also writes;

"Dear Billy,

I just wanted to thank you for the nice conversation we've had in my cabine and also for our time together in Greenwich Park London. I really enjoyed your company... Hope to see you again some day.

Nice greetings,

Sophie"

Saturday, 15 January 2011

Laura Branigan - Self Control (1984/ No. 5/ 17 weeks/ Atlantic)


If you're a friend or acquaintance of mine, then you will know me well enough to understand that I might well be the least hedonistic man in Britain. Yet I'm continually drawn back towards 'Self Control', a shining document of a nocturnal life of kicks and thrills. I don't know whether its just the evocativeness of the song that wins me over, or if its teasing out some darker, unfulfilled, urge in me.

What this song emphatically is not - although it ostensibly seems to be - is a lust song about a man who nightly strips away Laura's sense of propriety and self-preservation. Apart from being addressed to a "you", the object of the song fails to function as an individual and instead is seen in terms of the night itself, the city and the artificial light, a vast entity that swallows up the singer until she has no real sense of individuality left.

Oh the night
Is my world
City light
Painted girl
In the day
Nothing matters
It's the night time
That flatters
In the night
No control

Wearing white
As you're walking
Down the street
Of my soul

The lack of self control ought to mean that Laura is finding her true essence, but its easier to find an inner blankness;

I - I live among the creatures of the night
I haven't got the will to try and fight

There are occasionally hints of self-knowledge of the illusory nature of this life;

I'm living in the forest of my dream
I know the night is not as it would seem
I must believe in something so I'll make myself believe it
That this night will never go

- but the pull of the hedonistic world of the music is a lot stronger than the sense of its transience. It's too early for rave but this record easily holds its own alongside 'Weekender' by Flowered Up or The Streets' Blinded By The Lights, say.

This is one of those welcome cases of an eighties production making the song, rather than ruining it. It has fumpingly loud drums, of course, but crucially this is a record full of space. where the sounds are really separated. You don't feel that you're hearing an organic or integrated instrumentation when you listen to Self Control, but that you're getting sounds instead, sounds arranged in Mondrian blocks, supported by a disco framework. All of these separate sounds are thrilling and enticing - big riffs, bubbling keyboards, coked-up Ah Ah Ah backing vocals - sirens to the nocturnal world that the singer lives for.

This sense of the single being a document of a life going off the rails, seeking oblivion, comes across in a detail that only struck me after I'd been listening to this for twenty years. The thing is supposed to be propulsive, "rocky disco" you could describe it as, but it is very very slightly too slow. You sense that this is the precise point where things start to break down, the sensation of a synapse in the brain - addled by drugs and lights - snapping and collapsing reality as you listen.

Self Control presents the listener with a pornographic experience; The aesthetic is over-lit, you get the impression that the performers are on drugs, you're slightly upset to find it exciting you, and the whole thing feels strangely and compellingly impersonal.

Friday, 14 January 2011

The Wombles - Remember You're A Womble (1974/ No. 3/ 21 weeks/ CBS)

The Wombles phenomenon is a pleasing example of a project that got better and better with each new person that contributed to it;

Firstly, Elizabeth Beresford invented a new breed of reclusive mammal, the Womble. They live, unseen by human beings, in discreet burrows all over the world, the London branch under Wimbledon Common. These helpful creatures sometimes come out into the open to collect and take away litter, recycling it into useful devices. They have an interest in the human world, taking their names at random from an atlas.

Then, in 1973, a series of 60 five minute stop-motion animation films were made for BBC television by FilmFare, to the delight of small children such as myself. The design aesthetic of these films was a labour of great craft and good judgment, especially in the realisation of the creatures themselves, sympathetic characters with an ambling gait, white fur, wrinkling orange snouts and round eyes. It was always a shock for seventies children such as myself to come across older editions of the books, and discover that the pre-TV Wombles were rodents with crisp short black curly hairs and claws. Ugh! You wouldn't want to stroke one of them!

Also crucial to the success of the TV version was the note-perfect vocal work of Bernard Cribbins, one of those kindly and grandfatherly voices that don't seem to be so much of a feature of the more excitable 21st century childrens' television. I now realise that he imbued each Womble with the register and mannerisms of a recognisable London type of the earlier twentieth century, hence Tobermory is a city & guilds trained handyman, Great Uncle Bulgaria an elderly Hampstead Jewish intellectual, Madame Cholet a French house parlourmaid, and so on. For a series of miniatures for small children there's a real and tender characterisation in these programmes.

The Wombles also had a brilliant theme tune by Mike Batt - a brass and strings-led explanation of Womble philosophy;

Underground, overground, Wombling Free!
The Wombles of Wimbledon Common are we!
Making good use of the things that we find -
Things that the everyday folks leave behind!

So popular is this song with children and their parents that it is released as a single. Extended from twenty seconds to two and a half minutes, it's seriously good - the additional verses all contributing something and with lovely middle eight harmonies ("Oh Uncle Bulgaria, he can remember the days when he wasn't behind the times...")

To promote the single a series of Womble costumes are made, and the decision is made to continue releasing records under the name of The Wombles. 'Remember You're A Womble' is the follow-up single, and is anything but a meretricious cash-in.

A brilliant cheer-up song for children and grown-ups;

"When the sun doesn't shine and it's cloudy and grey
And it's only the beginning of the Wombling day
And you've got to do the washing up for Madame Cholet..."

'Remember' is structured around an ambling drumbeat and propulsive bassline. Over this we get a fiddle, brass, happy crowd noises, and occasional lovely harmonies. And most of all, a lot of call and response;

"Remember you're a Womble! (Remember you're a Womble...)
Remember you're a Womble! (Remember you're a Womble...)
Remember you're a Womble! (Remember you're a Womble...)
Remember you're a Womble! (Remember you're a Womble...)
Remember-member-member
What a Womba-Womba-Womble you are!"

This is so agreeable that I think it would work even if you were unfamiliar with who The Wombles are. It would take a very stony spirit not to be enticed into the good-nature of this jolly exercise.

Thursday, 13 January 2011

Chuck Berry - Nadine (1964/ No. 27/ 7 weeks/ Pye)


A study in lust and motion.

The lust is all on the part of the singer, an unvarnished portrayal in eye-popping, tongue lolling salivation, the silly things which it makes him do and the sense of adrenalinised excitement which it induces in him. In most songs about feeling aroused, singers normally make themselves out to appear confident, suave, assured - Songs about being a priapic idiot are much more compelling and make for much more engaging narratives.

The story is entirely told in terms of motion, not just the competing rhythms and motifs of the arrangement, but in the lyrics. Its a tale of pursuit and chase, on foot and and on various forms of transport. First line;

I got on a city bus and found a vacant seat
I thought I saw my future bride walking up the street!
I shouted to the driver 'Hey conductor! you must slow down!
I think I see her! Please - Let me off this bus!'

Naaaydiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine! Honey is that you!?

Back on the street, Chuck thinks he saw her but "she turned and doubled back" (perhaps not without reason). He pushes through the crowd "to get to where she's at" (which turns out to be walking towards a "coffee-coloured Cadillac"), again shouting "like a Southern diplomat" (eh?) As is so often the way in such situations, Nadine fleetingly reappears;

Downtown searchin' for her - Lookin' all around
Saw her gettin' in a yellow cab headin' up town!
I caught a loaded taxi - paid up everybody's tab
With a twenty dollar bill told him 'Catch that yellow cab'

We don't get any real impression of what Nadine is like. In certain sorts of songs that can really irritate me, but here it would rather spoil the point of the song. All we really need to know is that Nadine is clearly strikingly attractive. Note that the one description of her is in terms of movement;

She move around like a wave of summer breeze
Go! Driver! Go go! Catch her for me please!
Moving thru the traffic like a mounted cavalier.
Leaning out the taxi window trying to make her hear

and again that pleading;

Naaaydiiiiiiiiiiiiiiine! Honey is that you!?

We don't know if he does meet her in the end, though I imagine that his persistence would be rather off-putting and slightly scary. The sense of constant motion in the lyrics is supported by three competing instrumental motifs; a duckwalking guitar that jerks back and forth, running from striking excitement to thwarted frustration and with lewder implications that act like the id of the recording, a horn fanfare that only strikes up when Nadine is sighted, and a glistening, ticklish piano line that itches with mischief and anticipation.

Chuck Berry has been ill served by fifty years of lumpen pub rock interpretations of his songs (and, it must be said, his own scarily repellent personality). Go back to the original songs, though, and wiping away this accretion of dust and muck reveals pleasures of tremendous wit and finesse.

Tuesday, 11 January 2011

Haddaway - What Is Love? (1993/ No. 2/ 15 weeks/ Logic)


"What is love?
Baby don't hurt me
Don't hurt me
No more
Baby don't hurt me
Don't hurt me
No more"

Here's a record that transcends its function. Its commercial purpose is to act as a suitable soundtrack for couples to hook up to on dance floors, but - even while its the definitive disc to achieve that noble purpose - the wealth of longing in the record gives it a striking emotional depth.

Why? Because it gives us the most vulnerable moment of the glory days of Europop. It allows for the existence of doubt and pain, making the stakes almost unbearably high. The rhythm stops stone dead at points. Haddaway's yearnings are partially responded to by a spectral wail from the loved other. The prospect of failure and rejection is all over the minimal lyrics - "I would die"!

I can't think of any other single that would make the encounter with the loved other seem so triumphant, or its failure to occur seem so crushing.

Perhaps I just haven't moved on very much since 1993...

Billy's Taste Test - Nestle Quality Street Vs Cadbury Roses


  All the way from Halloween through to Christmas, Tesco have been selling tins of Quality Street and Roses at about half price, at one stage for as little as £4. So throughout the last three months I've been consuming them, a cornucopian tin of chocolates seemingly promising an everlasting supply, this plenitude working paradoxically to discourage me from eating too many at a time.

 As my supply is now nearing its end, and my mother has bought me a box of Roses for Christmas every year since the late eighties, it might be of value to set down my thoughts - of which I have many - about the relative merits of these two leading brands of relatively inexpensive wrapped chocolates.

 How best to collate this data? Well, lets try and compare like with like in so far as its possible to, and award every chocolate a mark out of ten. Think of it as like The Ashes or a series of football fixtures.


The Purple One (Milk Chocolate Hazelnut with Caramel) Vs Hazel in Caramel

(Quality Street 4 Roses 8)
 An emphatic early victory for Cadbury's with what should be an identical confection. The much-vaunted Quality Street "Purple One" suffers from very bland caramel and flavourless chocolate. Its also the worst shaped chocolate in this competition, with a ridged structure that doesn't fit well in the mouth. Older readers will realise that the reason for this is because the Purple One used to contain a Brazil nut, which meant that the shape - and the sweet's historical reputation for superiority - made sense.

  The Roses version is better in every aspect; The shape is satisfying to both eye and mouth, the caramel has a buttery, runny, texture, the chocolate is marginally superior, and even the hazelnut works better here, often shriveling slightly in this recipe and retaining more nutlike astringency. An extra point is gained by the sweet's attractive molding with its bluebell motif, the most aesthetically pleasing design detail to be found in either selection.

The Green One (Chocolate Noisette Pate) Vs Hazel Whirl

(Quality Street 9 Roses 9)


 
Kudos to Quality Street for retaining a praline - amongst the most subtle and pleasant of all chocs owing to the mixing together of chocolate and nut pastes, although the unavoidably claggy texture puts many off. Okay, so you could find better versions of praline elsewhere, but even done cheaply, its a connoisseur taste.

  Hazel Whirl is also a classic of its kind. Although it isn't technically a hard centre, it feels much tougher than the other Roses in the box and the aforementioned nuttiness (not especially sweet and retaining hints of bitterness) of Cadbury hazelnuts works particularly well in this setting. Hazel Whirl feels like a more serious undertaking than its companions, and therefore the consumer notices the pleasure of eating it to a greater extent.


Chocolate Toffee Finger Vs Caramel

(Quality Street 6 Roses 2)
 We'll be encountering an awful lot of toffee in this exercise, and the finger format of this variety makes it the most successful toffee in the tin. The ratio of chocolate to centre is the most generous, while the elongated melt-in-the-mouth shape means that it rests across the centre of the tongue, instead of requiring endless laborious mastication to swallow the thing.

 The Cadbury "Caramel" is a terrible misnomer, toffee in all but name, and unpleasant toffee at that. Its certainly the only "Caramel" that I've ever come across with a hard centre. What a swizz, and there always seem to be about twice as many of these as there are of anything else in the box. Also, like the Woody Allen joke "The food here is terrible. And such small portions!" I observe that these tedious chocs have shrunk in the last few years, adding to the impression that they are makeweights of the second division.


 Whenever I get a tin of Roses, I work on the principle of deferred gratification and always pick all of these out and eat them first. The flaw in this plan is that after a few days getting through dozens of these, I'm ill-disposed towards the entire concept of Roses, and even the nicer ones strike me as unappetising.

Vanilla Fudge Vs Country Fudge

(Quality Street 7 Roses 5)

 This might not be the result that you were expecting, but its all down to the texture. Quality Street fudge is relatively rough and grainy, reminding you of the fudge you made as a child, while the Cadbury stuff is waxy and processed in comparison. You'd have to be concentrating really very hard indeed to taste any vanilla in the Quality Street, mind you.

Strawberry Delight Vs Strawberry Dream

(Quality Street 8 Roses 7)
 Unlike most people, fruit chocolates are my favourites, and have been since childhood. (That and marzipan, too divisive a taste to get into either of these mainstream collections). We get two different approaches to the idea of strawberry here. The Cadbury Dream is generic lipsmaking strawberry goo, but - hurray for Quality Street! - Nestle use a filling with the texture of proper fondant and - crucially - plain chocolate coating, giving their strawberry offering a superior flavour and texture through its boldness.

Coconut Eclair Vs Brazilian Darkness

(Quality Street 3 Roses 7)
 Cor! Coconut! I remember this being a staple of any box of chocolates in the 1970s and 1980s, much appreciated by the boy Billy, but its become much rarer since then. Sadly, the Quality Street effort is a pretty horrible coconut chocolate. The taste of syrup completely overpowers that of coconut, and its hard and chewy in a slightly stale way. Eating this is more like chewing a Roses "Caramel" while simultaneously downing a shot of Malibu than a taste of paradise.

 Brazillian Darkness is the most eccentric choc in either box by a wide margin. For a start, since the sad withdrawl of the Bourneville Miniature many years ago, its the lone remaining plain chocolate in the Cadbury selection. I can't imagine that plain chocolate is very popular with the majority of Roses consumers, but its actually something that Cadbury do rather better than milk. And then it is the hardest of hard centres that you're ever going to come across in such a collection. Nobody I know who's lost more than about six teeth will even consider putting one in their mouths. Really, the effect is perhaps more striking than scrumptious but I'm always glad that these peculiar chocolates survive each Roses makeover. Like "Caramel" I note that these ones have also shrunk lately, though.


Caramel Swirl Vs Golden Barrel

(Quality Street 4 Roses 8)
 This is another incidence where Roses have the clear advantage over Quality Street. As has been seen in Hazel in Caramel, Cadbury are very good at making caramels, most famously in the bar memorably advertised by an orgasmic cooing rabbit in the eighties (an effect that became less seductive as soon as you learned that the voice artist was Miriam Margolies). I think that its a lot to do with a texture that's soft and runny while also feeling a bit adhesive. Cadbury caramel always seems to feel slightly hot in my mouth. The Quality Street Swirl is pallid, frigid, stuff in comparison.


 One thing, though. Why did Golden Barrel stop being the more evocative Caramel Keg? I'm pleased that it's still kept the attractive Yo Ho Ho barrel molding, anyway - an attractive piece of craftsmanship of a type never attempted by Quality Street.


Milk Choc Block Vs Cadbury Dairy Milk

(Quality Street 4 Roses 5)
 Oh dear. Both of these serve the primary process of reminding the taster that neither Nestle or Cadbury make very good milk chocolate in the first place. Nestle really got it wrong in the nineties when it relaunched Yorkie as smoother and creamier, in more direct competition with its closest rivals, Dairy Milk and Galaxy. For some of us, it was its concentration upon coconess, rather than milkiness, that was its great original strength. Milk Choc Block feels greasy and tastes of very little. Dairy Milk is slightly superior by virtue of its familiarity, but - as always - tastes like a combination of icing sugar and saturated fat to me.

Orange Creme Vs Tangy Orange Creme

(Quality Street 9 Roses 7)
 This is a repeat performance of the strawberry match, with the sole difference being that the rectangular Orange Creme - which I calculate has a higher plain chocolate to fondant ratio - is the most cocoey of all the chocolates on offer.

Toffee Deluxe Vs Caramel Velvet

(Quality Street 5 Roses 6)
 Its very hard to see what's Deluxe about this toffee - Toffee Routine would be a more honest - if less commercial - name. Acceptable.

 The peculiar combination of bubbles and Caramel in Velvet always gives me an odd sense memory of the summer of 1996 and the limited-edition Wispa Gold. Indeed a particular highlight of my fanzine music writer career was describing ‘Trash’ by Suede as being “as gooey and sweet as a Wispa Gold”. I doubt if anybody else associates the taste of Caramel Velvet with Brett Anderson squealling about nothing places and cellophane sounds. Wispa and Caramel are two things that Cadbury does well, though nothing much is gained by their combination, I maintain.

 So - if this was a series of sporting events, the series would be drawn 5 - 5 between Quality Street and Roses. Unfortunately this neat conclusion cannot be, as there are 13 different confections in Quality Street, but only 11 Roses. The two unpartnered Quality Street confections are -


Toffee Penny

(3)

 This one is a cheat. There was already more than enough toffee in the Quality Street tin without a third variety that isn't even a chocolate. As toffee per se it's perfectly acceptable, but it doesn't belong here.

Orange Crunch

(6)
 This is as eccentric as Quality Street gets. For one thing, it isn't remotely crunchy. In fact it has a yielding softness that's a bit disconcerting. If this wasn't for the pervasive orange taste, this peculiar chocolate wouldn't work at all. As it is, it goes to show that I will always like orange chocolates.

 So, in order to adjudicate the actual winner between the two brands, we have to calculate the average mark out of ten - but before we get to the results, a word about the packaging.

 In addition to chocolate, Cadbury's Roses often remind me of two other things; The rose logo of the romance publisher Mills & Boon, in particular processing new editions of their books with date and spine labels in my days as a librarian, and the Neil Kinnock Labour party of the late eighties, when they replaced their voter-frighteningly Bolshevist red flag motif with a red rose of very similar design to the Cadbury box.

 Quality Street these days have a dreary design of a constellation of chocolates and stars that always makes me reflect the world of design has vertiginously declined since I first became aware of the brand in the late seventies. In those days, a tin of Quality Street used to have an amazing line drawing of romantic Georgian troops and maidens, with a dashing officer and elegant lady in a bustle dress in the foreground. The packaging depicted Major Valentine and Miss Phoebe, the lead characters in J.M. Barrie's 1901 hit play Quality Street, after which the chocolates were named. Top that for marketing and lasting cultural influence, David Greig!


  Its the same feeling that I get whenever I pass a 2011 National Theatre poster, or look at the present day Radio Times or NME. When did people loose the confidence to use illustrations? Come to think of it, I'd much rather they were still made in Britain by Macintosh's, rather than by a malevolent multinational, but not so much as to prevent me from eating them.

 Anyway - The results are as follows;

Quality Street 5.23 Roses 5.82

 That's pretty close! It was the toffees that swung it... Roses have rather been let down by their consistent habit of discontinuing the nicest ones; Bournville, Almond Charm, the coffees, truffles and pralines.

 Looking at the history of Quality Street, I see an awful lot of discontinued lines that I either dimly remember or would like to have been around to sample; Hazelnut Cracknell, Coffee Cream, Chocolate Truffle, Montelimar Nougat, little boxes of Smarties... and, most intriguingly of all, the exotic Apricot Delight and Gooseberry Cream. I think that a Billy selected, toffee-light synergised Quality Street & Roses Heritage Selection would be my ideal fantasy choc tin.